1. Does the concrete need to be cleaned before using the clean & prep solution?
Yes, if there is contamination it must be removed.
2. How long does the standard coating take to apply?
Approximately 3 hours total for a normal garage.
3. Can I apply Epoxy-Coat® over an existing coating?
Epoxy-Coat® can be coated over existing paints/coatings by simply making sure the existing coatings are cleaned, sanded (80-100 grit) and bonding. All areas that are not bonding must be diamond ground to remove loose coatings prior to Epoxy-Coat® application.
4. If I have new concrete will I need to prepare the floor as Epoxy-Coat® instructions say?
Yes. New concrete must still have a rough profile and clean surface prior to coating.
5. How long do I need to wait to coat new concrete with Epoxy-Coat®?
6. What temperatures can I apply Epoxy-Coat®?
40-90 degrees F.
7. If you have bubbling problems during installation what should you do?
Take a leaf blower and blow the top of the surface to remove the surface tension and removing the bubbles.
8. If you have contaminants on the floor and therefore have fisheye problems what should you do?
Re-roll the floor until the fisheyes go away and prior to flaking the floor.
9. How many square feet will a full kit cover?
Up to 500 square feet at 9.7 mils Dry Film Thickness. Up to 240 square feet for 20 mils Dry Film Thickness. Most industrial floors apply at 16-20 mils Dry Film thickness. A normal coat of water based epoxy would coat at 1.5-2 mils Dry Film Thickness. A ï¿½ kit will cover up to 250 square feet at 9.7 mils Dry Film Thickness.
10. How long before the floor coating will wear out?
Generally 20+ years.
11. Does the floor get slippery?
Yes, when water or oil is present. Aluminum oxide non-skid is recommended to reduce this condition if you have excessive water or oil; a .5 coefficient of friction or higher is recommended.
12. What are the flake chips for?
They help with nonskid and help hide imperfections in the floor by adding a decorative look.
13. Do the flake chips wear out?
Generally no more than the coating.
14. What is a safe slip resistance?
.5 coefficient of friction is common acceptance in general floor areas and .8 on wheelchair ramps. The Elco meter test equipment can test Unit of force/weight of object. The Osha (Occupation Safety Health Administration) says a safe slip resistance as specified by 1910.68 is .5 coefficient of friction.
Additional floor test specifications by ADA:
- 0.6 flat surface
- 0.8 ramped surfaces
As defined by ADA accessibility guidelines (ADAAG)
15. Should we put aluminum oxide nonskid on the floor in addition to the chips?
If the conditions present water or oil, it is recommended.
16. Does the non-skid wear out?
Yes, in approx. 15 years.
17. Does the non-skid make the floor harder to clean?
If you mop the floor, it will be harder. If washed with a broom, squeegee or power scrubber, there is only a slight difference.
18. How long does Epoxy-Coat® take to dry?
Depending on the climate, you should allow 24-30 hours of dry time and before driving on your new floor.
19. Does crack/mortar joint patching crack or peel?
All concrete moves. Mortar joints/saw cuts are engineered to allow for the movement of concrete. Cracks are the cause of more movement than the mortar joints/saw cuts will allow for. Due to this, cracks\mortar joints\saw cuts can be patched but there is no guarantee that they will not move in the future more than the patching will allow for, therefore causing a crack in the epoxy patch. Generally this will simply be a small crack that will not chip or peel from the concrete.
20. Does the concrete need to be cleaned before using the clean & prep solution?
Yes, contamination must be removed.
21. How long does the standard coating take to apply, including preparation?
Generally 3 to 6 man hours, not including dry time.
22. Should I add thinner to the coating when mixing?
You may add up to 5% thinner to the mix for ease of application in cooler temperatures below 50º F, using xylene or MEK thinner only.
23. If I have fiberglass added to my concrete will Epoxy-Coat® cover the little hairs that are present after floor preparation?
Using a gas torch burn the hairs from the floor prior to coating.
Coat the floor with first coat of Epoxy-Coat®, wait 24 hours and sand vigorously with an industrial sander (80 grit), apply a second coat and flake the floor. Note: If you donï¿½t flake the floor you may still see traces of hairs so its important to apply at least the minimum of flakes provided in a normal kit. Ordering an extra 1-2 lbs of flakes for a 2.5 car garage would be a good idea.
24. How would I coat Epoxy-Coat® over wood surfaces?
Simply remove sealers/waxes/contaminants/nails and use our flexible acrylic caulk to patch the seams and holes prior to coating. As long as the wood is clean and has a texture to it, sanding won’t be necessary.
25. Should I patch cracks/holes/mortar joints prior to coating. How would I do this?
Epoxy-Coat® recommends patching all cracks prior to coating. Due to the fact that mortar joints/saw cuts are engineered for movement Epoxy-Coat® does not recommend patching them prior to coating. All holes larger than ½” should be patched prior to coating. All cracks can be patched (12 hours prior to coating) with a flexible, adhesive (paintable) acrylic caulk. Epoxy-Coat® sells this product. Simply caulk the cracks and remove the excess with a tape blade. Holes larger than ½” can be patched by Epoxy-Coat®. Epoxy-Coat® Concrete Patch is 4x stronger than concrete, so it is perfect for patching. You can patch holes or rough concrete in 2 different ways:
Apply Epoxy-Coat® in a normal application. Do not back-roll in the rough/hole areas. This will only work on rough areas or holes which are not throughout the concrete (so the coating will not sink through the concrete when patched).
Mix Epoxy-Coat® with a fumed silica (available through Epoxy-Coat®), this will give a thicker viscosity and can be used to patch any and all rough areas/holes/joints at any thickness or size. Epoxy-Coat® will have to be applied after this patch work is complete.
26. What are the comparable differences between Epoxy-Coat® Cycloaliphatic epoxy and other type of epoxies?
The most important differences between floor coating epoxies are listed below:
Epoxy-Coat® is a Cycloaliphatic 100% solids epoxy. This is a term used to describe the volume solids in a coating system. It is what is left over after the product dries. 100% solids yields 100% dried material after the coating fully dries. 50% volume solids yield 50% of the thickness after the coating fully dries. Most epoxies are 30%-40% volume solids. If you wish to compare the thickness after dried application between Epoxy-Coat® and normal epoxies you would need 2.5x the gallons to equal exactly the thickness of 1 gallon of Epoxy-Coat®.
27. Epoxy-Coat® is a Cycloaliphatic epoxy. What is a Cycloaliphatic epoxy?
It is a type of epoxy. Just like there are types of automobiles that perform differently (and vary in cost) so do epoxies. Not all epoxies are the same. If you wish to apply a high performance floor coating, you would want a 100% solids epoxy (to achieve a thickness suitable for proper aesthetics and durability), a high abrasion resistance, a product that would be resistant to yellowing or fading over time, high gloss, highly chemical resistant, impact resistant, 0 VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) for low odor and safety in application in odor and VOC sensitive environments.
28. If I get either bubbling or fish eyes when coating my floor, will it adversely affect the coating bonding or performance characteristics?
Bubbling or fish eyes will not adversely affect the bonding or performance characteristics of Epoxy-Coat®.
Most floor coating epoxies are not Cycloaliphatic 100% solids. They are the most expensive to manufacture. They can cost up to 4x the amount of other epoxies to manufacture. Epoxy-Coat® is the same quality of epoxy as is used in the most demanding industrial / commercial floors. In fact approx. 60% of industrial / commercial floors use a less quality Aliphatic 100% solids epoxy in their applications.